“I know of no other white wine so exquisite,” wrote Dr Jules Lavalle in 1855, in his now-famous The History of the Statistics of the Vineyards and Great Wines of the Côte d’Or. A stone’s throw from Beaune, the next stop on the Route des Grand Crus south from Pommard, the village of Meursault is world-renowned for its Chardonnay: the grape thrives here more than anywhere else in the Côte de Beaune. Château de Pommard’s Meursault wine comes from grapes planted on the “Vireuils” plot, planted in the high slopes of the village’s hills, where remarkable soils can be found. Covering more than 1,500 hectares, Meursault is the largest white wine producing commune in Burgundy. Meursault is also acclaimed for its hard Comblanchien limestone and well-concentrated soils, in part thanks to the savoir faire of the monks of Cîteaux Abbey who planted the soils with vines as far back as 1098
Fresh and crisp and straight from the “Vireuils” plot, planted in the high slopes of Meursault’s hills, where remarkable soils can be found, our Meursault 2013 is a bright, golden and extremely clear nectar – the distillation of a hot Summer’s day. One deep intake of breath will reveal smooth, rich and complex scents. Expect white peach, pineapple, roasted almonds and Bourbon vanilla. The flavor trails then arrive in waves of lime, citrus fruits, butter, honey with ample support from a flinty minerality. The palate is fresh, round and powerful, but without any heaviness and a trace of hazelnut is left behind on the tongue. Anticipate a finish that is super long and offers the tastebuds a sensation that is at once fruity and ever-so-slightly savory. Let this Meursault 2013 lie down a little at home, allow it five years to properly mature and come to life.
After the small yield, but opulent flavors, of the 2012 vintage, 2013 was another year that mother earth proved its hegemony over the vignerons and vignobles of Burgundy. The bud break was relatively late, seeping into June, following a cold, rainy and frigid Spring. Throughout June, intense rainfall delayed floraison (flowering), introducing an increased risk of blight. Pommard, as well as surrounding appellations Volnay, Beaune and Savigny-lès-Beaune, experienced a near-fatal hailstorm, identical to the power that struck in 2012. In July and August, the weather transformed again, this time for the better. Warm temperatures and sunshine envelop and clothed the vines – with some summer downpours relinquishing the heat – guiding the grapes to ripen delightfully at the end of September. Harvest began around September 23rd, with the vineyards bare of all ripe fruit come October 2nd. The year’s unstable conditions struck again with huge storms across the region’s vineyards on October 5th and 6th. Thankfully, just a few days too late to do any more damage to the net yield. Overall, the small vintage has great potential. We should all be thankful.
It’s often said that if life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. That’s true of this Meursault 2014. It offers a bright lemon shine, sparkling in the glass. With it comes delectable aromas of yellow flowers, yellow peaches, toast and a superb mineral smokiness. It’s a dry wine, with a moderate level of acidity and alcohol, at once complemented by a full body that fills the mouth. Those delicate toasted almond notes and oak flavours are very well integrated into the mix. For those looking for a shining example of a young, but complex, Meursault, this is it. It offers a great concentration of aromas, perfectly in sync with its refreshing acidity. Best enjoyed now, but due to its concentration and acidity profile, it has a long potential for aging, developing more complexity with time. Make a date, and this Meursault will make it a night to remember.
This Meursault 2015 arrives in the glass with a clear, pale, lemon glow. It’s a sight to behold. A beguiling mixture of aromas float upwards – yellow flowers, yellow peaches, vanilla, butter, cream and delicate toasty notes. The vintage is still evolving, of course, but all the elements are coming together nicely. On the palate, this 2015 is dry, with a balanced acidity, alcohol and body, with a generous delivery of yellow flower, yellow peaches, vanilla, butter, cream flavors (and those ever-present toasty notes). The finish is smooth and persistent, naturally. For those looking for an elegant representation of Meursault revered terroir – iconic buttery and creamy notes – then this is for you. There is a great deal of concentration of aromas and primary and secondary flavors on display. These are finely balanced out with a refreshing acidity. There is potential for aging, so save it for a rainy day if you desire. But don’t feel too guilty if you drink it now.
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