Clos Marey-Monge 2021 Vintage comes into its own with Andreas Larsson
Andreas Larsson, crowned the World’s Best Sommelier in 2007, is recognized as one of the finest palates in the industry.
A gamble, then, when we asked him to try two cuvées from our most recently bottled vintage: the tricky 2021. But a gamble we were happy to make because we know the skills of the winegrowing and winemaking team here at Château de Pommard. Even a difficult year can come good. But did it?
Spring frosts are no surprise but the difference in this vintage was the unusually high temperatures that came just before it. The vines began to come out to play and the budding began just as the mercury plummeted and the snow arrived causing havoc with the tiny new buds. Snow on the vines creates frost which, in turn, amplifies the UV rays’ effect leading to sunburnt buds. This was clearly going to be a comparatively tiny yield. But then humidity kicked in and brought with it not only very wet weather but the horrors of mildew. Powdery mildew (aka oidium) was the main issue, which usually hones in on Chardonnay but in recent years has started to affect Pinot Noir.
Therefore, work was incessant in the vineyard not only to protect what small yield we had, but to ensure that the following year’s crop would not be affected. A veritable nightmare for winemaking.
So how do you get all this information into a wine?
An expert of Larsson’s calibre can uncover the layers and textures of each wine, delving beyond the hue and swirl, seeking a harmony of aroma, flavor, structure, and finish that tells the story of its origin, cultivar, and vintage. But what happens when the story of a vintage like 2021 is uncovered? Short answer (and we know you’ve seen the image at the top of this story): the hard work and extraordinary skill of the team paid off.
We begin with the Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2021.
Medium-deep ruby red color. Subtle and perfumed with chalk, floral hints, wild raspberry, cherry, ginger, clove and mild oak. The wine boasts a nice combination of concentration and a supple texture with velvety tannins, bright freshness, seductive red fruit, and a very grainy and long finish. Despite its youth, it’s already seductive and inviting. Stylish.
95 Points.
Next up is the Clos Marey-Monge Chantrerie 2021.
These venerable vines benefit from one of the largest internal surface areas of clay in the Côte d’Or, worthy of a Grand Cru, and scores like one too. It’s another 95 from Andreas.
Medium deep ruby red color. Pure and intense with floral notes, rose, violet, sweet raspberry, cherry, plum, tobacco leaf, and gentle oak spice. Dense palate, tannins are supple but plentiful, giving structure and length; seductive sweet fruit is backed by a vibrant acidity. Despite its youth, it’s very inviting with great persistency, purity and complexity.
95 Points.
Andreas Larsson’s journey through these cuvées is not merely a tasting, it’s an exploration of time, place, and the artisan’s hand. Each score and note he offers is a chapter in the larger story of Burgundy, Château de Pommard, and the universal quest for wine that tells a story and makes you want to dream.
Thank you Andreas. We’re loving your work!
